"Early in the year 1854 Frederick Law Olmsted, a young journalist [writing for the New York Times] . . . set off on horseback . . . A Journey through Texas recounts his travelsalong the Old San Antonio Road through the East Texas piney woods, the dry prairies farther west, the chaparral of South Texas, and the rich bottomlands around Houston. Omsted's energetic and detailed account is a classic in Texas literature and an indispensable sourcebook for historians."
from the bookjacket

Seguin February 17 . . .About a mile from the river we entered Seguin. It is the prettiest town in Texas; at least of those we saw. It stands on elevated ground, in a grove of shaggy live-oaks, which have been left untouched, in their natural number and position, the streets straying through them in convenient directions, not always at right angles. How wonderful, that so cheap and rich an ornamentation should not be more common. The hotel is large and good. We were kindly treated, and furnished with clear information, at a store of Mr. Wuppermann, of whom we purchased some supplies. Irish potatoes were sold by him, we noted, at $6 the bushel, for seed.

A number of buildings in Seguin are made of concrete -- thick walls of gravel and lime, raised a foot at a time, between boards, which hold the mass in place until it is solidified. As the materials are dug from the cellar, it is a very cheap mode of construction, is neat in appearance, and is said to be as durable, while protected by a good roof, as stone or brick. One man may erect a house in this way, calling in mechanics only to roof and finish.

February 19 . . . We passed Mount Capote, which is a wooded summit, terminating a long range of hills. Though not high, it is the only object that rises above the general surface, and can be seen for a great distance. . . .

Guadalupe Lands

February 20…The bottom lands of the Guadalupe here are usually from two to four miles wide. They are said to be less subject to overflow than those of any other large river in Texas. They are covered with timber, which is mainly heavy and very valuable, especially so here where timber of any kind is difficult to be procured. The principal sorts are white-oak, pecan, walnut, hickory, box-alder, mulberry, cotton-wood, and cypress.

Exterior to the timber, on each side, is generally a portion of flat bottom-prairie. It has a rich black, clay soil, difficult to work, but producing heavy crops. Beyond this bottom-prairie, the surface rises abruptly to uplands, which present a good deal of variety in soil and scenery. The largest part is rolling prairies, with some chaparral and groves of live-oaks near the terrace. Further back are sandy elevated tracks, the soil of which is comparatively poor and covered by a thin growth of post-oaks.

The banks of the river, on both sides, are considered to be well settled. The houses of the residents are, perhaps, a mile apart on the more valuable parts. On the east side are some families who came here before the Revolution. Most of the settlers are extensive herdsmen and small planters. The plantations have a small front on the river, and extend back sometimes several miles over the upland prairie, no part of which is inclosed. Only the best of the bottom land is cultivated, and of that, probably, much less than a hundredth part.

February 21…Beyond Peach Creek bottoms, the scenery becomes more and more open. The bare prairie hills extend to the flowed river bottom. …The soil is black, but sandy. After 20 miles ride we camped in a charming spot . . . hanging our tent between two superb live-oaks, upon a swell of prairie, on our right a motte of moss-hung trees . . .

Excerpted from A Journey through Texas, Or, a Saddle-Trip on the Southwestern Frontier copyright, the University of Texas Press